Casale: The City of Monferrato

Let’s discover the wonders of this city and some of its lesser-known curiosities.

Casale Monferrato is a town in the province of Alessandria, in the Piedmont region of Italy. It lies at the foot of the eastern hills of Monferrato and is crossed by the River Po.

The historic center of the city has an aristocratic and solemn appearance that reflects the grandeur of its past and its historical role as a strategic stronghold.

The surrounding territory is exceptionally fertile and rich in vineyards that produce the renowned wines Barbera, Freisa, Grignolino, Dolcetto, and Rubino.

The town, of Roman origin, was granted by Emperor Charles III, known as “the Fat,” to the Diocese of Vercelli, from which it rebelled in 1215. It was subsequently razed by the people of Vercelli but rose again thanks to Frederick II of Swabia. Over the centuries, Casale came under the rule of the marquises of the Aleramici family, then the Visconti, followed by the Paleologi, and later the Gonzaga and the House of Savoy.

Casale Monferrato endured two closely spaced sieges. The first took place between mid-May 1628 and March 16, 1629, with the Spanish Empire and the Duchy of Savoy on one side, and the Kingdom of France and the Duchy of Mantua on the other. The second siege occurred between May 23 and October 26, 1630, pitting the Spanish Empire once again against the Kingdom of France. Both sought control over the strategically vital city.

The Cathedral of Saint Evasio is the oldest sacred building in Casale Monferrato and is built in Lombard Romanesque style. It was consecrated on January 7, 1107, by Pope Paschal II on the site of a former temple dedicated to Jupiter and, later, a church dedicated to Saint Lawrence the Martyr, built during the time of the Lombard king Liutprand.

The cathedral's striking gabled façade is flanked by two bell towers. Beside the main entrance are two columns topped with replicas of statues representing King Liutprand and Queen Theodelinda.

The tympanum above the portal features a depiction of Christ enthroned between Saint Evasio, holding a model of the church, and Saint Lawrence on a gridiron—both patron saints of the cathedral.

The majestic narthex is a unique example of Romanesque architecture, characterized by intersecting arches in sandstone blocks and clay bricks.

Inside, the cathedral is divided into five narrow naves. The main altar is made of polychrome marble, and the choir features intricately carved wooden stalls. Suspended from the triumphal arch is a grand 12th-century crucifix.

In the Chapel of Saint Evasio, there is a silver and crystal urn containing the relics of the city’s patron saint. Other sacred buildings in Casale Monferrato also deserve mention, such as:

• Church of San Domenico, second in importance only to the cathedral, combining Baroque, Gothic, and Renaissance styles;

• Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie, considered one of the masterpieces of Baroque architecture not only in the city but in all of Piedmont;

• Church of San Michele, also known as the “Church of the Nobles,” with an octagonal plan and crowned by a dome;

• Church of San Paolo, a 16th-century Greek-cross structure;

• Sanctuary of the Sacred Heart of Jesus, built in the 20th century in neo-Gothic style with five naves, and elevated to the status of Minor Basilica by Pope Paul VI;

• The Synagogue, constructed in the 16th century and completed in the 19th century in the distinctive Piedmontese Baroque style.

Among the most significant civil buildings are:

• Palazzo of Anna Alençon (15th century), with a characteristic Renaissance courtyard;

• The imposing Palazzo Gozzani Treville, in Piedmontese Baroque style, with a Neoclassical façade designed by architect Giovanni Battista Scapitta;

• Palazzo Sannazzaro, originally medieval, later remodeled in the 18th century in Baroque style;

• Palazzo San Giorgio, a beautiful building housing the City Hall;

• Palazzo Langosco, prestigious home to the Giovanni Canna Civic Library;

• Palazzo Magnocavalli, attributed to the architect Benedetto Alfieri;

• Palazzo Sacchi-Nemours, designed by Francesco Ottavio Magnocavalli, a leading figure of Piedmontese Baroque;

• The Municipal Theatre, in Empire style, a true architectural gem by architect Agostino Vitoli of Spoleto;

• The Civic Tower, with a square plan, likely dating back to the 11th century, extensively restored and now one of the city’s symbols.

The Paleologi Castle was built in 1352 by Giovanni II Paleologo, Marquis of Monferrato, as a defensive structure.

The Citadel, a military fortress, was built between 1590 and 1595 by Vincenzo I Gonzaga, Duke of Mantua and Monferrato. It was the site of numerous sieges and was largely destroyed during the Siege of Casale in 1695, though parts were rebuilt ahead of the Second Italian War of Independence.

One of the oldest sites in Casale Monferrato is Piazza Mazzini, whose layout may date back to Roman times. In the Middle Ages, it was the political and commercial center of the town, already important even then. At its center stands an equestrian monument to Charles Albert of Savoy.

Also worth mentioning are the city’s public gardens and the Civic Museum, housed in the former Augustinian convent of Santa Croce.

Local culinary specialties include the famous Krumiri biscuits, wines, cheeses, grappas and spirits, rice, the traditional salami known as Muletta, truffles, the Krumiro liqueur, and more.

As for the local economy, agriculture, industry, and artisan crafts all play a prominent role.

Photo: The Cathedral of St. Evasio.