Strolling through the Lanzo Valleys

A corner of unspoiled nature just a stone's throw from the Piedmontese capital. 

The Lanzo Valleys are three valleys in the Graian Alps of the Piedmont region, nestled between the Orco Valley to the north and the Susa Valley to the south. They are crossed by several watercourses that flow into the Stura di Lanzo stream, from which they take their name, derived from the town of Lanzo Torinese.

From north to south, the valleys are: Val Grande di Lanzo, Val d’Ala, and Valle di Viù. The Lanzo Valleys are surrounded by some of the highest peaks in Piedmont, particularly along the border with France. They are considered "closed valleys," as they lack alpine passes that connect them to neighboring Italian valleys or to France, except for a few rare exceptions.

In ancient times, the area was inhabited by the Graioceli, a Celtic people originally from what is now the French valley of Maurienne, located in the Savoie department. Archaeological finds and remains of temples can still be found scattered throughout the three valleys.

One of the most significant religious sites in the Lanzo Valleys is the Sanctuary of the Madonna di Ciavanis, located at 1,880 meters above sea level in the municipality of Chialamberto. It is dedicated to Our Lady of Mount Carmel and can be reached via a trail that leads to the Paglia valley, where the sanctuary offers a breathtaking view over the Val Grande di Lanzo.

The Sanctuary of Santa Cristina, dedicated to Saint Christina of Bolsena, stands at 1,340 meters above sea level on the summit of Mount Santa Cristina, at the border between the municipalities of Ceres and Cantoira. It is accessible by two stone stairway paths, one from Ceres and the other from Cantoira.

The Sanctuary of Saint Ignatius, dedicated to Saint Ignatius of Loyola, is located at 931 meters above sea level on the summit of Mount Bastia, in the territory of Pessinetto. Construction began in 1629, prompted by miraculous events attributed to the saint’s intercession. The idea of building a sacred site dedicated to the founder of the Jesuits came from a priest, Don Giovanni Battista Teppati, who encouraged the faithful from Tortore, Gisola, and Mezzenile—his parishes—to donate toward the construction of a chapel. Despite many difficulties, the gravest occurred when a rock fragment fell, striking the iron pickaxe in the priest’s hand and embedding itself in his abdomen. Mortally wounded, Don Teppati continued working for a few minutes before succumbing to his injuries. Despite the tragedy, construction continued with the support of the local community.

The original chapel soon proved too small to accommodate the growing number of pilgrims. The locals donated the summit of the mountain to the Society of Jesus, which expanded the sanctuary to include the actual peak of Mount Bastia within its walls.

The sanctuary can be reached on foot via various trails, with starting points in towns such as Germagnano and Pessinetto.

Val Grande di Lanzo, the northernmost of the three, is located in the Graian Alps and is crossed by the Stura di Valgrande stream. It is dominated by the Levanne mountain group, which frames the valley along the French border. Its main towns are Cantoira, Chialamberto, and the dispersed municipality of Groscavallo.

Val d’Ala, the central valley, is the narrowest and steepest of the three. Its key towns include the small Ala di Stura, composed of several hamlets and popular in both summer and winter seasons; the historic town of Balme, located at 1,432 meters above sea level and renowned for its natural springs; and Ceres, situated at the confluence of Val Grande and Val d’Ala.

A particularly interesting site in this valley is the Pian della Mussa, a vast plateau formed from a glacial lake. It is the source of the Stura di Ala stream, which merges with the Stura di Valgrande in Ceres to form the Stura di Lanzo. The plateau’s striking beauty inspired composer and mountaineer Toni Ortelli to write the famous Alpine song "La Montanara". Moreover, the Pian della Mussa is mentioned as a likely route taken by the Shroud of Turin during its journey through Val d’Ala in 1535.

The Valle di Viù is the southernmost of the three and was carved by the Stura di Viù stream, a tributary of the Stura di Lanzo. Its main towns are: the small, ancient municipality of Lemie; Usseglio, recognized with the Orange Flag by the Italian Touring Club for its outstanding natural, historical, cultural, and architectural beauty—also a key stop along the Grande Traversata delle Alpi and a year-round tourist destination; and the beautiful town of Viù, named after the valley itself. Viù lies in a natural basin along the Stura di Viù and boasts ancient origins, having been inhabited since prehistoric times, as evidenced by Neolithic artifacts and rock carvings found in the area.

The Lanzo Valleys are known for their rich production of typical local products, especially in agriculture. They are also famous for “Torcetti di Lanzo” (twisted butter cookies), cornmeal biscuits, the renowned “Toma ad’ Lans” (Lanzo toma cheese), liqueurs, honey, and beef salami.

The most iconic monument in the Lanzo Valleys is the “Devil’s Bridge”, whose bold architecture and unusual rock formations inspired a legend claiming it was built by the devil himself. The bridge spans 37 meters in a donkey-back arch, stands 16 meters high, and was constructed in 1378 to connect Lanzo with the right bank of the Stura River. It lies in a narrow gorge with sheer rock walls, and its construction was entirely funded by the Castellania di Lanzo.

The Devil’s Bridge is the symbol of the Lanzo Valleys and once served as the only passage for those traveling from the valleys to Lanzo or the plains.

The Devil’s Bridge Nature Reserve is a protected area covering 30 hectares in the municipality of Lanzo Torinese. It takes its name from the bridge itself, near which lie the “Giant’s Kettles”, spectacular red rock formations believed by local folklore to be the enormous cauldrons the devil used to prepare soup for his helpers while building the bridge.

The entire Lanzo Valleys area offers a wide range of nature trails and points of historical, cultural, and legendary interest, making it a destination of remarkable richness and variety.

Photo: View of the Lanzo Valleys (from fermatalpigraie.com)